Onions Drying (gouache style)

Onions have been cultivated for thousands of years, probably first in Central Asia, and they belong to the allium family alongside garlic, leeks and chives. They're grown from sets, which are small immature bulbs, or from seed. Brown varieties such as 'Sturon' and 'Centurion' are dependable keepers, and red onions add colour and a milder bite. Look for hollow, tubular, blue-green leaves above the swelling bulb.

Spring sets go in during March and April, spaced about 10cm apart with their tips just showing; birds like to pull them up, so check them for the first few weeks. Overwintering Japanese types are planted in September or October and are ready in early summer, but they don't keep as long. Weed carefully, because onions can't compete with weeds. Once the leaves flop in late summer, lift the bulbs and dry them until the skins rustle. Use any thick-necked ones first.

The picture shows freshly lifted onions laid out on a wooden rack in the sun, their tops already dry. This drying stage decides how long the crop will keep, so it's a moment that matters. Warm light, papery skins and a full rack mark the end of the onion year.